PPM stands for “parts per million” and is a unit of concentration. For example: let’s say there are 3 lbs of cannabis compared to 1,000,000 lbs of water, we would say the concentration of cannabis is 3 ppm. Another unit of measure, ppb, is similar in principle but stands for “parts per billion.” When I am referring to PPM’s, I am referring to the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), ot the total amount of nutrients present. Another measurement that people use is Electrical Conductivity (EC) – the working principle is the same. The more nutrients you have in your water (a higher concentration, more ppm’s), the higher your EC is because the nutrients are ionic solids.
When we are measuring PPM’s (usually with the same instrument that measures pH), we are analyzing the total amount of salt/nutrients in the water. This is important because we must make sure that we are adding the right amount of nutrients every feed. Let’s say you measure on Tuesday, and you get 1,500 ppm. You measure on Wednesday using the same feed and get 2,200 ppm in your reservoir. This can help you to conclude that too many nutrients were added one day vs. the other.
But this isn’t the only reason to measure PPM’s! Testing your runoff (the water stream beyond the root zone) provides useful pieces of information that can make sure your plants are performing the best that they can.
Every time you take a measurement, whether it be pH, ppm, or something else, you are conducting a science experiment. Like all science experiments, you must make sure they are done properly. Measuring runoff by itself is useless without additional measurements. I strongly recommend measuring two things in your water stream: ppm’s and pH; both must be measured in your sump and in your runoff. By measuring at a minimum of these two places, you can understand how your plants are behaving and potentially taking nutrients. Also – if you intend to get nutrient elementals, you must make sure to get the sump measurement as well as the runoff.
Below I will go over some situations that can arise from the analytical results you might get. This is assuming you have collected a sample/measurement in your sump, and in your runoff.
This is a good thing! This implies that your plants are taking up nutrients, thus lowering the overall ionic concentration! If you monitor this routinely and you see a standard drop (e.g., 1600 in, 800 out, 6 days a week), that implies that your plants are experiencing roughly the same conditions on a daily level. Keep in mind: if your PPM’s are super low in the runoff, consider upping your nutrient treat rates slowly.
This implies that your plants are not properly taking up the nutrients in the sump. One reason for this may be due to pH; certain ions (such as nitrate or phosphate) can only be taken up by the plant in certain ranges.
Check for a white precipitate (a solid) in your sump. One reason, if you’re sure you added the right amount of nutrients, that the ppm’s might be lower is due to nutrient lockout: not all the ions in your sump get along; they may react with one another and form a solid that is not soluble in water. One of the most classic culprits is calcium phosphate (from Ca2+ and PO43-). You can help avoid this by practicing proper mixing techniques (see video below).
Although rare, this indicates that there was some sort of salt buildup at the root zone. This buildup persists for a while, and then slowly dissolves back into the runoff, resulting in a higher PPM. The most common salts that are present in the root zone that are not water soluble are calcium-type salts (calcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, calcium hydroxide). Use a line cleaner (or if you’re at the end of the run and the rinse won’t hit the plants, try dilute muriatic acid) to help remove the salt buildup. Copious flushing with water will help too; it’s just slower.
Look at the elemental values in your runoff vs. your sump. First, ensure that your nitrates (and total N), phosphates, and potassium ions are decreasing between your sump and runoff. This shows that the yellowing is not due to a macronutrient deficiency. Continue looking at the other elements to potentially find which element needs to be fortified. Again, if your PPM is not lower in your runoff than in your sump, there are some issues with your pH that may also be leading to the yellowing.
A little variance is normal, but a large change is known as pH drift. Keep an eye out for nutrient lockout, as this is one of the main reasons for a significant pH drift. It’s a good idea to monitor this because if your pH is drifting, certain nutrients may not be available to your plants as the pH drifts outside the uptake able range.
Analytical data for your grow is extremely important! Make sure to always have two pieces of data before trying to make a conclusion; concentration (whether it be via ppm or EC) and pH are crucial tools to analyze in both your runoff and sump. It can help make sure your plants are growing to their full potential!
Hi Guys, Dr. NPK here. People can be green with envy, red with anger (like when my football teams lose!), but no one is ever…yellow? As growers, that’s the most important color we care about (not) seeing! Yellowing of your leaves is a very vague term that can mean different things to different people. This post is dedicated to helping you understand yellowing: why it occurs, what are some potential causes, and ways to determine the cause.
Unfortunately, diagnosing yellowing is an extremely difficult thing to figure out. One reason it is so hard to decisively and quickly diagnose issues in your grow is the sheer number of variables present. To definitively conclude that “X” is causing the problem, two separate trials must be identical except for the variable being tested (“X”). Oftentimes this is not the case when growers are working on solving the issue in a live environment. Below are some of the reasons that this yellowing occurs.
pH Range. I believe incorrect pH is one of the most common mistakes people make in their grows. Of course, many people take the pH of their sumps, but it is also important to test runoff pH at well. If there is a significant difference in pH’s, it could be an indication that something is funky in your medium/soil. Remember, the ideal pH is between 5.8ish and 6.3ish.
Nitrogen Deficiency. In general, there are many nutrient deficiencies that can cause yellowing – by far the most common lacking macronutrient that results in yellowing is nitrogen. Nitrogen is huge in veg because it promotes healthy leaves; because nitrogen is a mobile macronutrient, a nitrogen deficiency results in older leaves turning yellow, curling, and dying off. Nitrogen tolerates pH very well, and is also found in Elite Base Nutrient A and Elite CalMag in concentrated quantities. Be careful: nitrogen toxicity is a thing: symptoms include darker leaves, weak stems, stunted growth, and also a “claw look.” If you’ve ruled out a nitrogen deficiency as your cause of yellowing, it’s time to look at other nutrient deficiencies.
Magnesium Deficiency. One of the common symptoms of a magnesium deficiency is a yellowing of leaves (that’s why it’s in the post, duh!). The key difference in this yellowing is the location: because magnesium is a mobile element (meaning the ion can be shuttled between different cell locations within the plant), the plant will ration out its current supply of lower-than-normal-magnesium to the newer leaves (towards the top, where the new growth is). Thus, if you see yellowing towards the bottom of your plant (aka the older leaves) that are present outside of the veins, absolutely consider a magnesium deficiency as a possible source.
Calcium Deficiency. I’ve mentioned this before, but calcium deficiencies are concerning due to calcium’s role in building the cell wall (weak cell wall = dead plants!). Although close in proximity to the magnesium symbol in the periodic table (Ca vs. Mg), these two secondary nutrients have a significant difference: a calcium deficiency results in yellowing in new or younger leaves. This is because calcium is an immobile element; as a result, the calcium ion cannot move freely between old and new leaves. Thus, leaves will grow in inherently yellow.
Iron/Micronutrient Deficiencies. I chose to lump these together, but basically your cannabis plants require a variety of micronutrients and iron to ensure proper growth. Iron is a vital immobile element, so you will experience yellowing in the newer leaves (like calcium). In general, it is rare to have other micronutrient deficiencies if you are in the right pH and are sure you’re putting in the appropriate micronutrients (such as in Elite Base Nutrient A).
Diseases/Bugs. Another potential cause of yellowing is unfortunately not chemical-related; diseases and pests can be causes of yellowing! Bud rot and fungus gnats, to name a few, are potential causes for yellowing in plants. Ultimately, stress on the plant (even something as simple as too much heat!) will cause yellowing of the plant. If you can eliminate the chemical culprits, it really simplifies your approach to determining the stressor associated with a disease/bug.
Once you identify the type of deficiency, that is half the battle! Next step is treating the problem. Obviously, pH adjustment is self-explanatory (use your favorite pH up/down to get to the correct pH). For nutrient deficiencies, especially ones not related to N-P-K, take a peek in your reservoir. Do you see any type of precipitate (solid stuff)? If so, you may be experiencing nutrient lockout. Nutrient lockout essentially means ions in your sump are reacting with one another to make insoluble salts that just chill at the bottom of your res. If you’re yellowing and you see a bunch of solid stuff that you didn’t add initially, chances are, the nutrient lockout is preventing the contents in your sump from being delivered to the plant! Make sure you are mixing individual nutrients slowly and completely.
Lastly, consider supplementing with a CalMag supplement like Elite CalMag to help supply a variety of secondary nutrients. This will likely help clear up a variety of nutrient deficiencies all in one fell swoop. The convenience of using a supplement like this is that it saves you time on “diagnosing” the issue. Instead, you have a blanketed solution.
Yellowing is a difficult issue to remedy in your grow. It is always worthwhile to take the time to ensure that your pH is within the correct range, your plant has plenty of secondary nutrients and that you are mixing you nutrient correctly to avoid making insoluble salts.
Hi Everyone! Dr. NPK here, at it yet again. Today’s blog topic is about chelation: a very chemistry-ish topic! Chelation is a very important chemical principle that is important in a variety of industries, including cleaners, water purification, and oil & gas. BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY: chelation is important in growing cannabis 😊.
Chelation (pronounced key-lay-shun) is defined as: “the process of chelating” …thanks Merriam-Webster. Well anyway, the act of chelating is a type of bonding between a metal ion and a ligand (ligand = a type of molecule that has an affinity for the metal ion). An analogy of this would be to imagine your significant other in a crowded room…if he/she was asked to give ONE person a hug in the room, (hopefully it’s you), that’s how ligand/chelants work. These chelating agents have different affinities based on size and ion type (e.g., calcium has certain attractions to chelants that iron does not). The generic equation for a chelant is: M + L = ML (M = metal, L = ligand). Once the ligand binds to the metal ion, it is usually chemically unfavorable for the ligand to separate from the metal (meaning the reaction is not reversible…once you make “ML”…it will be really hard to split them up!). Imagine the chelating agent “biting” the metal and holding on….
It’s cool that chelation is an important principle in a lot of industries…but why is it important in cannabis? If you recall from above, I had mentioned that chelation is important for metal ions. Macronutrients like potassium, sulfur, and nitrogen do not require chelation to be taken up by the plant. Cannabis plants (and all crops) need a variety of nutrients, many of which are metal ions. These include most of the micronutrients found in Elite Base Nutrient A, like iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), and copper (Cu). Unfortunately, these highly charged species get “caught up” by other ions present in the tank (or soil). The scientific term for this is “double displacement reaction.” These positively charged metals mentioned above react with the negative species found in your sump (such as sulfate, or phosphate), and create an INSOLUBLE metal mixture! Insoluble mixture = not taken up as easily by the plant = micronutrient deficiency! In the case of iron, the heavily oxygenated environment causes the iron to be oxidized, making it water insoluble and in a plant-unusable form. By using a chelated metal, it assures that the chemical identity of the micronutrient stays the same (i.e., does not interact with the negative species found in your sump), ensuring that the micronutrient is delivered in plant-usable form.
There are a variety of chelant chemistries available; but one stands head and shoulders among the rest. I am referring to EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid). EDTA is an attractive chelating agent because it is cost effective and has broad-pH stability; when I say pH-stable, it means that the chelated complex of the metal+chelant does not separate at the specified pH. EDTA is the chelant of choice in hydroponics for most applications; the one exception is really, really, hard water with a slightly alkaline pH (>7.0). If your water is this hard (my condolences), consider pH adjusting the water prior hitting it with nutrients. If you are seeing a super red “blood-like” color to your nutrient mix, it is likely oxidized iron that is not plant-usable. If you are running your res at a normal pH range, EDTA should be good to go. There are some naysayers that say EDTA is harmful; I disagree with those people. EDTA is a common chelating agent in the pharmaceutical industry (Wax, P. J. Med. Toxicol. 2013, 9, 303–307) and its metabolism in chickens (Darwish, N. M.; Kratzer, J. Nutr. 1965, 86, 187–192) and cells (Kluner, T.; et al. Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology 1998, 49, 194–201) has been studied. I can buy a bottle of calcium EDTA from any grocery store…so it feels pretty safe to me.
Chelation is an important chemical principle in hydroponic growing. Fortunately, for most growers EDTA is the best solution for your chelated micros due to its availability and general stability. If your water is outside the normal pH range for EDTA, consider pre-treating your water with pH up/down to get to a normal range prior to treating with nutrients.
Hi Guys, Dr. NPK here. I warned you that I was going to have my pun game on point…
Anyway, time to finish up our conversation about the micronutrients: specifically, what each element does, and what signs indicate that there is a deficiency in the aforementioned element. (Check out Part 1 HERE) As a quick refresher, here is the list of micronutrients used in cannabis hydroponics:
Manganese (Mn) | Boron (B) |
Copper (Cu) | Zinc (Zn) |
Molybdenum (Mo) | Cobalt (Co) |
Some say iron (I classify it as a secondary, separate post on iron)
Real quick, just want to make sure you understand: Manganese (Mn) is different than Magnesium (Mg). Despite being different, both manganese (a micro) and magnesium (a secondary) are both involved in photosynthesis. Magnesium is incorporated into the chlorophyll molecule, whereas manganese helps with the photosynthetic process. Manganese is essential in starch (aka carbohydrate) development; in chemistry, Manganese is an excellent oxidant/reductant, so it can move electrons around efficiently. This ability to move electrons around helps it in the electron transport mechanism in the plant. (Mousavi et al. Aust. J. Basic & Appl. Sci. 2011, 5, 1799–1803). Manganese is also an important part in the activation of a variety of enzymes. Right amount of manganese = higher yields (because photosynthesis is being efficient) + excellent carb production.
Symptoms of manganese deficiencies are like magnesium (because it affects the photosynthetic process): yellowing of leaves (interveinal chlorosis). Manganese is less mobile than magnesium, so young leaves are affected. One major reason that your plants may be short on manganese may be due to higher pH (the basicity of the water interferes with the manganese/prevents appropriate uptake in the root zone), or the presence of a significant amount of organic matter (again, outcompetes the manganese molecules). Remember to use chelated manganese products!
I like copper the most of the micronutrients. My main reason for liking this micro so much is due to its benefits. Copper is a vital micro for setting up your plants for great lateral growth, as well as excellent disease resistance (notice how many fungicides contain copper?). Lignin biosynthesis needs appropriate levels of copper; lignin is a special macropolymer (say that ten times fast) that is used to support cell wall strength (Alaru et al. Field Crops Research 2011, 124, 332–339). Copper is also important in other enzymatic processes (it is a great electron transport agent, like manganese), but I really think the take-home message here is copper = enhanced lateral growth.
Symptoms of copper deficiency are difficult to diagnose (it’s not quite as clear as other micro deficiencies), but leaf wilting + stunted growth are good signs you’re short on copper. BE CAREFUL, copper toxicity is a real thing, so don’t go crazy and overcorrect with copper. Check to make sure your copper source is a chelated copper (I haven’t had much success with copper sulfate, it gets tied up by other ions in solution).
Yes, ‘tis true, 0.0008% is a calculated number. Molybdenum is a nasty heavy metal that can affect human health in high concentrations. Most plant-friendly molybdenum sources are supplied as the “molybdate” – such as “sodium molybdate.” The molybdate form of molybdenum is just negatively charged (think of like magnesium sulfate, where the magnesium is positively charged and the sulfate is negatively charged…bust out the chemistry textbooks!). Molybdenum is a funny micro because it is more of a “support element.” Molybdenum is a vital element in the formation of the enzymes nitrate reductase and sulfite oxidase (Kaiser et al. Annals of Botany 2005, 96, 745–754). The key one here for me is “nitrate reductase” – molybdenum is required to support nitrogen processing in your plant. Molybdenum = nitrogen absorption = green plants and growth!
Molybdenum deficiencies are very rare (little goes a long way!), but the main reason is due to nutrient lockout due to low pH. The easiest way to tell if you have a molybdenum problem is if your plant is exhibiting what seems like nitrogen deficiencies but you’re sure your plants are getting enough nitrogen (without molybdenum, that nitrogen can’t be processed).
Boron has a special place in my heart: my Ph.D. dissertation was centered around this element. Boron is extremely important in plant nutrition, and is one of the most common micronutrient deficiencies in crop nutrition today (Shorrocks, V. M. Plant and Soil 1997, 193, 121–148). Thankfully, it is rare in cannabis growing. Boron is one of the few micros that is not supplied in a chelated form. One of boron’s most important roles is in sugar translocation: it’s all great that photosynthesis creates energy and sugar…but just like any manufacturing location, product must be moved off the floor! Boron is one of the elements that helps facilitate this (Mitchell et al. Science 1960, 132, 898–899). Boron = more efficient photosynthesis = better yields!
Boron deficiencies coincide with other macro deficiencies; leaf spotting and weak stems (boron is associated to the cell wall). Foliar spraying boron is one option, but just confirm proper pH and ensure the nutes you are working with contain boron. Note: I know some people use borax (sodium borate), but I would encourage you not to use this material because sodium is detrimental to cannabis in high quantities.
Cobalt is up there with molybdenum in terms of being small players in the micronutrient realm. Despite being needed in small quantities, cobalt plays an important role in stem growth and elongation (Grover et al. Plant. Physiol. 1976, 57, 886–889). Cobalt is also an important support nutrient for nitrogen and potassium uptake. Cobalt = better stem elongation = better yields!
Cobalt deficiencies, as previously mentioned, are rare (especially because cobalt doesn’t need to be chelated, so it’s hard to lock it out). Symptoms of this rare deficiency have to do with stem elongation and growth – if you are experiencing improper spacing and growth, cobalt may be the culprit (I’d check macros and secondaries first before pointing the finger at cobalt, though).
We have arrived at our last micronutrient, zinc! Zinc is an important micronutrient from a growth perspective – Zinc in small quantities is needed to ensure appropriate growth and to prevent chlorosis. Like many of the other micronutrients, zinc should be in a chelated form (Zn EDTA for example). Zinc = improved yield = healthy intermodal spacing.
Being an immobile element, zinc deficiencies tend to manifest in the newer/younger leaves. These leaves will not only exhibit chlorosis, but also will be wilted and look generally unhealthy. Zinc, like cobalt and molybdenum, is required in small amounts – zinc toxicity is a possibility!
Dude, that was a lot of elements to discuss. The take home message here is: keep your pH at the appropriate level, and buy a micronutrient product that can really supply all the micros that you need. Elite Base Nutrient A and B provide all the micros that you need to help avoid all the micronutrient deficiencies listed. Consolidation is always a nice thing!
Who is Dr. NPK? With a PhD in Chemistry from UC Irvine, Dr. NPK was instrumental in developing the Elite Nutrient line. Learn more about him here.
Hi everybody! Welcome to this installment of “let’s talk about elements”! This post is dedicated to our tiny friends in the fertilizer world: micronutrients! There are quite a few; I don’t want to be a BORON you (...yes I am really happy about that pun), so I decided to break the nutrients into two separate blog posts: this post is background of the micros, and part two will go into the nitty gritty details. When we say micronutrients, we are referring to the following elements:
Manganese (Mn) | Boron (B) |
Copper (Cu) | Zinc (Zn) |
Molybdenum (Mo) | Cobalt (Co) |
Apologies in advance for all the puns related to the elements.
It’s quite amazing the accommodations we must make as cannabis farmers that don’t use soil. If you read my post on types of water sources, I mentioned that soil-based growing has a little bit more room for error changes (the soil is a “buffer” of sorts). As you can tell by the name of these nutrients, micronutrients do not need to be in high concentrations (sometimes in the parts per million, or ppm). In fact, many of these nutrients in high quantities would be TOXIC! It’s just like cheeseburgers…small quantities and they’re great…too many and your doctor is going to yell at you. Anyway, in soil media, usually the soil itself has these metals already present, and thus would not be fortified. Now of course, if you deplete the soil nutrients, you would need to supplement to get your micros.
Obviously, without soil in a hydroponic garden, you are robbed of these essential micronutrients. Thus, it is of paramount importance to make sure your plant is getting the supplemental micronutrients it needs.
I wish it were that simple. To make things more complicated, not all micro sources are the same. It has to do with nutrient mobility – micros tend to be very immobile (this is a good thing, imagine if all the heavy metals in the world were able to move quickly through the soil…we would be in trouble). The easiest way to explain this is via the periodic table: most of the micros are called transition metals (in the middle section of the periodic table). These metals have super high affinities for the charged particles in soil (or in your case, the anions that are present in your res or at the root zone such as phosphates, sulfates, etc.). So instead of going into the plant, they would interact with these things, and not be taken up by the plant. The issues I’m describing can be similar to “nutrient lockout” you see with calcium or phosphorous; but at super small levels you may not even see it happening!
I set up the above title to hopefully make you say, “chelates” wrong (if you said “chillates”…got ya!). Chelates (pronounced key-lates) are a special way to describe these micro metals. Instead of using an iron source like iron (III) sulfate (which would likely get stuck in your res and not be plant absorbed), iron comes in “chelated” form: Fe-EDTA, Fe-DTPA, Fe-EDHHA, etc. Chelated metals are much easier for the plant to be able to take up in a usable form (Wallace, A. et al. Soil Science 1957, 84, 27–42). An entire separate post will be devoted to this, but just know that when you look at Elite Base Nutrient A, all those “EDTA”-based nutrients are essentially the security escorts for the micros to get into the plants! Quick note: not all transition metals require chelation. So, let’s get into it now!
Much of the world considers iron a micronutrient – as a scientist, I actually lump it into the “secondary macros” category, because its deficiencies are similar to what we see in secondary nutrient deficiencies. The take home message about iron (discussed in detail in a future post): Fe-EDTA = chelated iron = good for your plants in small quantities for most water systems. Iron chlorosis is the yellowing of the leaves with still green veins; your plant needs more iron if this happens!
That’s all for this post, stay tuned for part 2 of the microtalk!
Who is Dr. NPK? With a PhD in Chemistry from UC Irvine, Dr. NPK was instrumental in developing the Elite Nutrient line. Learn more about him here.
]]>Hi everyone, Dr. NPK at it again in today's blog post: I wanted to continue the discussion about getting right to the “science” of the Elite nutrient products. With that….I want to introduce: Elite Root Tonic C! What is its purpose, why do we care about it, and most importantly, how does evidenced-based science motivate the development of this product to help us grow the biggest plants we can!
When we were developing our line of nutrients, we did not focus on a single product to make; instead, we wanted to have a total fertilizer nutrition profile. It is well-known that phosphorous and potassium are critical during the entire life cycle of the plant. Specifically, we wanted to develop a highly concentrated product that delivers phosphorous during the veg and early bloom phases to help expand the root structure (this is in addition to our mycorrhizal-based product Elite Root Igniter). Phosphorous is also an important element in general plant growth (Both veg and bloom cycles), an essential component in nucleic acids and phospholipids, and as an intermediate in carbon metabolism (Veneklaas et al, Ann Bot. 2006, 98, 693–713). The non-science summary: phosphorous is important in processes that are done by the plant through its entire life.
Like phosphorous, potassium plays an important role in the life cycle of the cannabis plant. Most growers understand potassium is important when your plants are in the flowering stage. Few realize, however, how important potassium is during the veg phase as well. Potassium’s primary benefit in the veg stage is in the photosynthetic process (if you forgot what that is, it’s when the plant converts sunlight to energy). The chemical gold that’s made during photosynthesis is adenosine triphosphate (ATP). Despite ATP containing the word “phosphate,” the role of potassium is extremely important because it maintains an electrical charge balance at the reactive site (Better Crops, Vol. 82(2), 1998). Thus, too little potassium = slower ATP formation = LOWER YIELD!!!
Now, back to the title of this subsection: concentration. Elite Base Nutrients A and B were designed to provide well-balanced nutrition (loads of elements provided through the entire life cycle of the plant). Elite Root Tonic C’s goal is exclusively to provide potassium and phosphorous. By using the chemistry available to us in water-soluble form (mono- and dipotassium phosphate), we could turn up the total amount of deliverable phosphorous and potassium. At an NPK rating of 0-10-12, growers can use less fertilizer and still get the necessary boost of macronutrients that they need to grow great bud.
Elite Root Tonic C is a 0-10-12 fertilizer; extra concentrated for extra results!
The last facet that we wanted to address when designing Elite Root Tonic C was pH balance. Most growers know that the ideal range to grow good bud is in the pH range of 5.7-6.4 or so (I’ve read anywhere from 5.5 to 6.5 as well). Recall that typical water is in the range of 6.7-7.1, so clearly the pH must be lowered in some way. If you check out the Elite Nutrient Feed Chart, you’ll see that Elite Root Tonic C is always used in tandem with Elite Base Nutrient A and B. The base nutrients have very acidic pH’s (4.0–6.0 combined), so we had to balance these out with a higher pH-based product. This is why Elite Root Tonic C has such a high pH (~7.4) in comparison to the other nutrients: it will bring your total pH up into a range that is closer to what the cannabis plants require to have the right nutrient uptake.
I know, it seems crazy. I literally just spent over a page telling you it’s all about roots. Well, I was MOSTLY being honest. You may have checked out our feed chart on the site…notice how Elite Root Tonic C is used in the beginning parts of flower….seems weird if it was just exclusively for roots why we’d care about it during flower. One of the key advantages of Elite Root Tonic C is just how concentrated it is; it provides a high degree of phosphorous and potassium. As you are pruning/cutting (to stimulate lateral growth), you need this extra boost of K/P to be able to support the additional bud. Thus, Elite Root Tonic C is an excellent way to improve lateral growth. Finally, additional K/P can work wonders to minimize stress on your plants; stress is one of many factors related to stretch (too large of internodal spacing, resulting in weak plants), so if you’ve ruled out other causes of stretch, consider upping your K/P via Elite Root Tonic C to tighten those internodes for more bud sites!
Elite Root Tonic C is fine-tuned chemistry in a bottle. We had three main goals when developing it: support our base nutrients, make it concentrated, and make it help with pH balance. We believe we got it right!
Who is Dr. NPK? With a PhD in Chemistry from UC Irvine, Dr. NPK was instrumental in developing the Elite Nutrient line. Learn more about him here.
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]]>What’s up everyone, Dr. NPK here. Today’s post is about diagnosing some common secondary plant deficiencies and some potential remedies for them. I guess it’s finally time to devote a blog post to my “doctor” status, right? But for real…not a medical doctor so don’t listen to me in that realm, only chemistry! Over the next few months, I’ll detail certain elements and how to fix their respective deficiencies
The jackpot for scientists is a well-designed experiment. Scientists are always trying to setup a system that tests one variable. In science, it is important to note that you can’t make a conclusion (or diagnose a culprit) unless you are rigorously testing for one variable only! I cannot stress this enough. For example, let’s say your plants are not doing well. To help fix the problem, you change when you feed your plants as well as the quantity of fertilizer. The plants start to look better; you blame the amount of nutrients you were using. HOWEVER, because you changed two variables (time of feed + amount), you cannot make a definitive conclusion! I see these issues all the time with growers.
To be clear, I don’t say this to scare you; I just want to make sure you understand that sometimes identifying the culprit is harder than you think, and that it is important to have an open mind that there may be multiple issues (or variables).
Ever wonder why most calmag supplements contain both calcium and magnesium? Most formulators put these two vital nutrients together because it can be very difficult to diagnose one deficiency over the other. Also, calcium ions (Ca2+) and magnesium ions (Mg2+) typically behave the same way in your water solution; if you are getting nutrient lockout of one (e.g., calcium sulfate or calcium phosphate formation, the white salt at the bottom of your res), you are likely getting nutrient lockout of the other (magnesium sulfate is an exception, but magnesium phosphate is insoluble). Elite CalMag is our solution to blanketing any issues you may have with a lack of secondary nutrients. When I think of secondary nutrients, I think of chlorophyll, which is green. If I am deficient in these nutrients, my chlorophyll will be low, and I would expect lack of green color.
Of the secondary nutrient deficiencies, calcium deficiencies tend to be more concerning, because calcium is also used in the growth of the plant’s cell wall. Things to look out for:
If you are sure you are supplementing with the correct amount of calcium (remember, if you use RO, use Elite CalMag), a common issue I see with growers is their root zone pH is off. Calcium uptake in cannabis plants is pH-dependent! You should target 5.2-6.1 pH range to ensure proper calcium uptake. An easy way to tell if your plant is uptaking calcium is to use one of your calcium supplements, and measure your EC before the roots (but after the sump) and then after the root zone. If your EC doesn’t go down, it means your plant hasn’t taken in any of the nutrients (likely the calcium). Lastly, check your reservoir for calcium lockout (white solids in your reservoir). Usually these useless inorganic salts are formed when you mix the concentrates too quickly. Add each fertilizer product to your water res more slowly with good mixing so it has time to fully dissolve before adding the next fertilizer concentrate.
Signs of calcium deficiency. Spotty brown/yellow marks that usually affect the top of the plant.
Calcium deficiencies will typically appear in newer leaves. This is because calcium stored in older leaves cannot be transferred to new growth as calcium is an immobile ion in the plant.
As I had mentioned before, magnesium deficiencies follow similar appearances to calcium deficiencies (chlorophyll, the whole brown/yellowing deal). There’s one key difference between them: calcium-caused browning affects growth from the beginning (and affects plants towards the top of the plant), magnesium-caused browning affects already-established leaves (e.g., they don’t “grow in yellow,”). Signs to look out for to start thinking it’s a magnesium problem:
Troubleshooting is similar to calcium deficiencies: check EC before and after root zone, look for nutrient lockout, confirm you’re in the right root zone pH (similar to calcium’s pH range) and make sure to supplement your RO water with Elite CalMag. Remember: magnesium deficiencies can be disguised as calcium deficiencies, so make sure to keep an open mind when troubleshooting!
Magnesium deficiency in cannabis. Note the yellowing is outside the plant veins.
Magnesium deficiencies will typically appear in older leaves. This is because magnesium is allocated to new growth as it is a mobile ion in the plant.
Calcium and magnesium are two vital elements to grow good bud. Yellowing is often a sign of an impact on chloroplasts/chlorophyll, and it’s a good chance it’s related to the secondary nutrients (including iron, which we will discuss in a later post). Using Elite CalMag could solve all your problems with a single supplement!
Who is Dr. NPK? With a PhD in Chemistry from UC Irvine, Dr. NPK was instrumental in developing the Elite Nutrient line. Learn more about him here.
]]>As growers, we have a lot of variables to consider when growing the perfect crop: what pH do we want? What type of growth medium? What sugars should we add? What should I eat for dinner…. the possibilities are endless! One major decision all growers face is what type of water to use: tap, DI, or RO water. I analyzed these choices in detail in a blog post here, but the takeaway message here is: RO and DI water contain significantly less minerals than tap water does. This is a good thing, though: this allows us to have a much finer creative control with the nutrients we use (instead of the city groundwater dictating its contents), but it also means the water must properly be fortified with the right balance of nutrients or our plants will starve! By using de-mineralized water, we are removing virtually all calcium, magnesium, sodium, iron, and heavy metals. Although heavy metals and sodium are not good for the cannabis plant, they desperately need Ca, Mg, and Fe.
It became clear to us early on that growers using de-mineralized water run the risk of calcium and magnesium deficiencies due to their water supply. Despite not being considered a “primary nutrient” like NPK, calcium and magnesium are crucial to growing the perfect crop. Calcium and magnesium deficiencies can cripple a crop, and a few symptoms include:
Although technically classified as a “micronutrient,” iron (Fe) is anything but small. Iron is a vital micronutrient that prevents extreme yellowing of newer leaves; a lack of iron can quickly turn your crop to a yellow nightmare! Iron is a special nutrient that is involved in many of the cellular processes found in plants; often, it is hard to distinguish between an issue with iron exclusively vs. issues between magnesium/iron/calcium. One way growers can tell the difference is that iron deficiencies tend to affect all incoming leaves, whereas magnesium deficiencies tend to impact older leaves. Because of the difficulty in diagnosing the correct elemental deficiency (Mg vs. Ca vs. Fe), we tend to view iron as a “secondary nutrient” instead of a micronutrient.
When we designed Elite CalMag, we wanted to make sure that we accounted for the valuable secondary nutrients that growers need to produce the perfect crop. Elite CalMag was formulated with our friends in the “ium” family in mind: fortified with calcium and magnesium, Elite CalMag provides secondary nutrients to balance out the core Elite nutrient line. Additionally, Elite CalMag contains iron. Not all iron sources are created equal: Elite CalMag contains a special chelated iron that enhances uptake of iron into the plant; think of chelated iron like that body guard that ushers you in to the party while everyone else waits in line! The result is a product that provides rapidly usable secondary nutrients that will make a difference in your system. No matter which secondary nutrient deficiency you are trying to solve, Elite CalMag provides a blanketed solution that will put your plants back on track!
Like the rest of the Elite Nutrient line, Elite CalMag was developed to provide distinct, appreciable advantages compared to other supplemental lines. The Elite CalMag difference includes:
Hi Everybody! Welcome to this installment of Dr. NPK! This post is dedicated to the unsung heroes (if you’re a football fan like me, this is the “O-Line” tribute for cannabis science): the secondary elements! So much focus is placed on the primary macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, a.k.a. N-P-K), but these elements can’t do their job without the right supporting staff. I’m talking about the secondary macronutrients calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), and iron (Fe). I want to make one important distinction: many people categorize iron as a micronutrient and thus would not be considered a secondary macronutrient; I make a personal choice to incorporate iron into my list of secondary macronutrients for two reasons: 1) it is typically used at a higher treat rate than many other micronutrients, and 2) iron deficiencies often present the same symptoms as those of secondary macronutrient deficiencies.
By far, calcium is the most commonly discussed secondary nutrient. Water-soluble calcium is usually found in the highest concentration in fertilizer formulations of the secondaries. Calcium is usually listed as “water soluble calcium” on the back of fertilizer bottles; for some organic products, it is a suspension in water (usually derived from dolomite, a calcium/magnesium carbonate). The most commonly used source for fully water-soluble formulas is calcium nitrate. Elite CalMag (COMING SOON!) and Elite Base Nutrient A both contain high concentrations of fully water-soluble calcium.
Calcium plays an important role in the cannabis plant: when you think of calcium, you should think of “cell wall.” Calcium ions (Ca2+ if you really want to get into it) helps to develop the cell wall. Establishment of the cell wall is important to prevent diseases as well as to ensure proper and even growth. Calcium deficiencies tend to manifest in the growth of younger leaves; calcium ions are immobile in the plant, so a deficiency in calcium will affect the younger leaves.
One final note: ever add in your total nutrient regiment and notice some white solid show up out of nowhere, quickly? Don’t worry, that’s likely not biological (don’t you wish that was the news you always got?): it’s likely a sign of nutrient lockout. You are likely forming one of a few insoluble salts: calcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, or maybe even calcium silicate. These salts are practically insoluble, but also harmless to the plant.
Following behind calcium is magnesium on the secondary nutrient totem pole. Water-soluble magnesium typically runs in smaller concentrations (1–3%); sources of magnesium in liquid nutrients include magnesium nitrate, magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt), or magnesium acetate. Elite CalMag and Elite Base Nutrient B contain high concentrations of water soluble magnesium.
I used to work at Rite Aid when I was in high school/college. I had a mean customer one time ask me “where are your chlorophyll pills?” To which I replied, “go out and eat a plant.” Yes, I was written up and probably should not have been so snappy (hindsight is 20/20). But, this leads me to my next point: magnesium! Magnesium is an important element in photosynthesis. Magnesium is believed to be a key contributor in converting sunlight to actual energy within the plant, likely due to its influence on chlorophyll (Yang et al, The Crop Journal 4 2016, 83–89). Thus, too little magnesium = less chlorophyll = crappy photosynthesis.
Magnesium deficiencies tend to present themselves in older leaves as magnesium is mobile. The plant will then direct what little magnesium it has to new growth leaving the older leaves magnesium deficient.
Sulfur is an interesting element. The crux of my Ph.D. is based on this element. My wife isn’t a fan: sulfur compounds usually smell like fart. Regardless the smell, plants absolutely need sulfur. Sulfur is provided to the plant in a variety of ways: elemental sulfur (as a milky suspension), the sulfate (SO42-) ion (such as in magnesium sulfate) which is also the most plant-available form, or bisulfite/sulfite (SO32- and HSO3-, respectively) in sodium bisulfite. High concentrations of water-soluble sulfur are found in Elite Base Nutrient B. Our source is via magnesium sulfate, which is the most plant-available form of sulfur available on the market. Oh yeah, and it doesn’t smell like fart. That’s good.
Epsom salts are great for tub soaking…but they’re also a great source of nutrients for cannabis!
Sulfur is important in the plant for a variety of reasons. Although it is important in catalytic processes and chlorophyll production, one of its hallmark attributes is via amino acid production. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and these proteins play a pivotal role in the strength of your plant as well as your yields. Sulfur is also important in essential oil production (http://www.sulphurinstitute.org/fertilizer). Thus, too little sulfur = less amino acids = lower yield + plant strength. No one lines droopy plants!
Although needed in significantly smaller concentrations, iron is a vital element for cannabis growth. I will go into significantly more detail about iron in a later post, so a broad overview will suffice here. Iron is an ion that can be attacked by many other ions; to avoid this in your reservoir, iron should be supplied in chelated form; this protects the iron ion. The most commonly supplied form of plant-available iron is iron EDTA. Iron is found in Elite Base Nutrient A and Elite CalMag.
Iron has a variety of functions in the plant, mostly involved with chlorophyll and chloroplasts. Iron, like magnesium, plays an important role in the development of chloroplasts, which are a key component of chlorophyll (Rout, G.; Sahoo, S. Reviews in Agricultural Science 2015, 3, 1–24). This is why iron deficiencies are categorized by the browning of leaves (no iron = no chlorophyll = no green = no green, in the bud sense).
Although used in lower quantities, secondary macronutrients play a pivotal role in the plant growth. You don’t pay attention to them, and your plants will suffer. Elite Base Nutrient A and B provide all the secondary nutrients you may need. If you’re using RO water, Elite CalMag will provide the right supplement to your water to make sure you’re getting all those important secondaries!
Who is Dr. NPK? With a PhD in Chemistry from UC Irvine, Dr. NPK was instrumental in developing the Elite Nutrient line. Learn more about him here.
There is, without question, quite a bit of art and alchemy in growing: certain growers swear that certain aminos provide the perfect bud, whereas others swear that the same amino killed his/her crop! No matter how you slice it, one key ingredient that surrounds growing is science. Unfortunately, many use science in nefarious ways to benefit; this has caused a significant proliferation of “faux science” – also known as “fake science.” At Elite, our goal is to cut through this “faux science” and provide you with hard, evidenced-based growing information.
With that in mind, today’s blog post kicks off the science behind two of our core products: base nutrients A and B. After all, since we developed these products following scientific principles, we may as well tell you what those principles were, right?
Look, I get it: consolidation is always nice. Instead of getting a salad and a pizza at dinner, I usually get a pizza with arugula on top – kills two birds with one stone. The goal of our entire Elite product line was to minimize the total amount of products in the product line; however, sometimes consolidation is not possible. One of the key reasons is elemental incompatibility. Here are all the nutrients provided in Base Nutrients A and B:
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As you can see from the above…that’s a lot of elements! There are certain incompatibilities that exist between calcium and other elements (ever see that white sludge in your res? Chances are, it’s a calcium phosphate salt). We must strategically divide our product line to ensure extended shelf stability while still being able to deliver 13 total elements in a concentrated form. I should take this moment to remind you: never mix concentrates together! Mix one of the base nutrients into your res with water, mix thoroughly, then add the next. If you are making a white precipitate (precipitate = solid that doesn’t dissolve in water), it is likely from mixing too quickly and forming a calcium phosphate salt.
For our base nutrient line, we incorporated all the essential micronutrients (e.g., all those small percentage elements) into one product and Base nutrient A was born! One pesky detail of micronutrients is that they have a high affinity for almost any ion; this can result in these micros not being taken up by the plant, but instead binding to something in your res! To combat this, the micronutrients are chelated, which is a process that binds the metal ion to an organic compound so the plant can more easily uptake. This is done using a well-known chelator in the agricultural industry. This ensures that the micros are rapidly taken up by the plant. The implementation of micronutrients is crucial for rapid growth (deficiencies in these nutrients can cause issues quickly in your crop), so we recommend using Base Nutrient A during all weeks of feeding.
Left: Label for Base Nutrient A; Right: Label for Base Nutrient B.
In the same way, we developed base nutrient B to be able to supply the necessary secondary nutrients for plants: calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Base nutrient B is naturally a pink color: this is a result of the naturally derived soluble potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) that is used in the formula. Base Nutrient B provides a high level of phosphorous and potassium (0-5-4), which rounds out the primary nutrients when used in conjunction with Base Nutrient A.
Learn more: What is NPK | Blog Post
Another important facet of developing a base nutrient line is pH balance. Base nutrients are designed to be used through the entire feed cycle. Whether it is veg or bloom, Elite Base nutrients deliver important nutrition required for plant growth, but we believe your crop needs an additional boost of phosphorous and potassium in both veg and bloom phases. We accomplish this through the addition of either Elite Root Tonic C or Elite Resin D, depending on which week of your feed you are in. High “P” and “K” products are almost always higher in pH (our Root Tonic C and Resin D are), so we wanted to make our Base nutrient products inherently lower in pH. That way, once everything is in the reservoir, minimal pH adjustment is required. This also lowers the probability of pH drift, which is a value-added bonus.
Elite Base Nutrients A and B were designed to be the perfect full cycle nutrition regiment. With their pH balance and total elemental nutrition in a fully soluble form, the Elite Base Nutrients are scientifically proven to improve yield and correct major nutrient deficiencies in your crop.
Who is Dr. NPK? With a PhD in Chemistry from UC Irvine, Dr. NPK was instrumental in developing the Elite Nutrient line. Learn more about him here.
Hydroponic growers are a subset of farmers: we lack soil when producing our crop. This provides us with many advantages (more direct uptake of nutrients, arguably less bugs, clearer visibility to root zone), but one of the main drawbacks of using soil-less systems is mistakes tend to be much more amplified. When I grow tomatoes in my backyard using soil, I have a vibrant ecosystem taking place in the soil that acts as a buffer of sorts: the soil maintains a very regular system that is hard to perturb. Often, over-fertilizing is self-limiting in soil; excess nutrients will just persist in the soil (note: extreme over-fertilization will result in “over salting” which can be herbicidal).
Soil-less media users tend to have a much more difficult time hiding their mistakes. To be clear, when I say “soil-less”, I am ultimately referring to any media that does not add any nutritional content to the plant; thus, coco and other nutrient/water-absorbing media are considered “soil-less.” If you over-feed or under-feed your plants, that protective soil buffer is essentially gone, and you risk killing all your plants. Because it is so important to monitor precisely what you are feeding your plants, you absolutely need to know what is in your water, regardless of the type that you choose. In my opinion, there are certainly advantages to some types of water compared to others.
Well water isn't the greatest option that you have. As you can see in the diagram (taken from epa.gov), well water is coming directly from the groundwater source. The main issue with well water is the large number of inorganic and microbiological contaminants. According to the USGS Water Science School, groundwater (and thus well water) can contain the following contaminants:
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Overall, we strongly recommend not using well water.
For the personal/recreational grower, sourcing appropriate water can be challenging. After all, why not use the hose and set up to use tap water? Tap water is not as bad as well water because the groundwater is filtered at the water treatment facility (and tap water is very cheap!), but it certainly has its drawbacks:
Despite the above drawbacks, tap water is still significantly better than well water.
My favorite options for hydroponic growing are RO water or DI Water. De-ionized water (or DI water) is purified through a filtration system that performs cation and anion exchange to yield high purity water. In general, DI water contains less than 50 ppm contaminants. DI water is not distilled water; distilled water is usually purer but it is purified in a different manner.
Reverse osmosis, as you can guess, is the opposite of osmosis. Osmosis is the flow of molecules of water to higher concentration from lower concentration. Reverse osmosis, therefore, is when water molecules flow AWAY from higher concentrations. From a grower’s standpoint, reverse osmosis means we take “concentrated water” (has lots of contaminants) and remove the contaminants by pushing the water through a semi-permeable membrane. What results from this is super high purity water! This is clearly what we want as growers! The main drawback of this process, however, is that a good deal of water must be wasted when purifying. On average, an RO system “loses” about ¾ to ½ all water that goes through the RO system. However, technology is constantly improving RO systems, and water waste will continue to be minimized.
My final ranking for water sources is the following:
Fortunately, the Elite Nutrient line is fortified with stable minerals that resist the various issues found in water sources. Elite Base Nutrient A and B are perfectly pH balanced and can tolerate a wide range of tap and well water hardness. If you are using RO or DI water, consider supplementing your nutrient regiment with Elite CalMag, which supplies vital secondary nutrients such as Ca, Mg, and Fe to your water. The result is pure water that is devoid of dangerous elements that contains important secondary nutrients!
Overall, you have many choices when considering your water supply – depending on which you choose, Elite Nutrients can ensure your plants receive the proper nutrition.
Who is Dr. NPK? With a PhD in Chemistry from UC Irvine, Dr. NPK was instrumental in developing the Elite Nutrient line. Learn more about him here.
]]>We are always trying to educate and delineate as much information as possible so you can be an informed grower. To accomplish this, we've brought on our newest contributor: Dr. NPK.
Take a second to learn a little bit about his background and why he's a fantastic authority on the science of growing:
Dr. NPK has been in the chemical formulating business for over 9 years. With a Bachelors in chemistry from UCLA and a Ph.D. in chemistry from UC Irvine, he has always had a passion for chemical formulation. Over the past several years, his focus has narrowed towards the research and development of products that are optimized for cannabis. He assisted in the development of the Elite Nutrient line and takes great pride in the products he created and uses himself. He has made it his mission to cut through all the pseudoscience available on the web and to educate readers on the science behind growing top-shelf bud. With a dog that he treats like his son and his 2 month old daughter (of the human variety), Dr. NPK's is a busy man who can clean up a mess in record times; don't even ask.
If you have been using Elite, by now you have seen the three numbers on the front of all Elite bottles. These numbers are crucial to you as a grower, so we wanted to break down the science behind them and explain why they are important to you and your plants.
All nutrients in Elite bottles are important as they work together to make your plant as healthy as it can be, but it is nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium that do the bulk of the work and demand extra attention. This is why you will find these three numbers on the front of all Elite bottles. All other nutrient concentrations can be found on the back of the bottle.
Nitrogen plays a key role in the formation of carbohydrates, nucleic acids, and amino acids – the building blocks of proteins that build stronger, healthier plants. For this reason, nitrogen is particularly critical to your plant during the early (vegetative) stage when your plant is growing at its fastest rate. While nitrogen is still important during the later flowering stage, too much can negatively affect the aroma, flavor and quality of your final product, so it is important to find the right balance.
Nitrogen is also directly responsible for the production of chlorophyll. During photosynthesis, chlorophyll transforms light energy into chemical energy in the form of carbohydrates (sugars). Chlorophyll absorbs much of the light spectrum, with the notable exception of green, which it reflects back, thus giving leaves their familiar green color. When your plant is healthy and receiving the nitrogen it needs, you will notice a vigorous green color on the leaves.
Nitrogen is a mobile nutrient, meaning the plant can move nitrogen to where it is needed most. When your plant is nitrogen deficient, you will notice that the lower (older) leaves start to turn yellow. This is frequently due to the plant directing its nitrogen (and the chlorophyll it produces) to new growth on top of your plant.
Phosphorus provides your plant the energy it needs to grow big and healthy. Your plant uses light energy absorbed by chlorophyll and creates “high-energy” molecules called ADP (adenosine diphosphate) and ATP (adenosine triphosphate). These molecules, as their name implies, are entirely dependent on phosphorus and they are the workhorses for energy transfer within your plant.
ADP and ATP essentially power all necessary biochemical reactions within your plant, including nutrient uptake (eating) and cell division (growing). For this reason, your plant growth will stall without enough phosphorus. Conversely, if your plant has a good supply of phosphorus, you should see more “everything” – roots, stems, leaves, buds, and yields. You will also observe robust leaves and stems that look and feel strong and healthy. Phosphorus is needed throughout the entire life of the plant, but is most required in the vegetative and early flowering stages.
Phosphorus is also necessary for maintaining genetic integrity from generation to generation. Phosphorus is an important bonding component of DNA, which holds a plant’s genetic blueprint. Phosphorus is also a bonding component of RNA, which reads DNA’s code and assigns instructions to the plant to build according to that blueprint. From genetic viability to energy, phosphorus is an essential component to growing healthy plants
Unlike Nitrogen and Phosphorus, which work mostly to add mass to your plant, potassium is critical for various internal functions. Potassium plays a key role in transporting water and nutrients throughout your plant, allowing it to satisfy its own needs quickly. When potassium is deficient, your plant will be less able to move its mobile nutrients to the parts of the plant that need it.
Potassium also regulates respiration activity and allows the plant to cool itself when needed. It does this by controlling the opening and closing of the stomata (typically found on the underside of leaves), which regulates the intake of carbon dioxide and release of water and oxygen. Stomata regulation is essential for proper functioning of the photosynthesis process. In potassium deficient plants, the opening and closing of the stomata may take hours (instead of just a few minutes), which leads to severely stunted growth.
Potassium also plays a key role in the activation of enzymes that are necessary for the so-called ADP/ATP cycle – the engine that drives metabolism.
Potassium is critical throughout the entirety of your plant’s life, but has its most celebrated effect during late flowering when it aids in the production of potency-increasing essential oils. Potassium enhances crop quality in all flowering plants, improving physical quality and decreasing pest and disease susceptibility. Lack of potassium will reduce quality and yield.
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Your plant is always talking to you, sending you signals and clues. Understanding the key nutrients your plant is receiving will help you better tend to your plant if signs of trouble appear.
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We are excited to announce the launch of the Elite Newsletter. Our goal is to be a resource for the community of growers and enthusiasts. We are here to help you grow the best garden possible, and maybe learn a thing or two along the way!
We have years of experience and we want to share what we've learned with you. We're always adding content to our YouTube page - with big plans for the future. We will continue to publish infographs and other educational information on Elite products, growing methods and everything in between.
We love to do giveaways - and they are usually time sensitive, so we will always announce them over our newsletter (among other places like Facebook and Instagram). We will also keep you up to date on any new promotions or discounts!
We are always working on new projects. The Elite Newsletter will be where you will hear about the newest products first. We may also provide some teasers on what's to come.
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Parts Per Million is an important gauge for your plants health. Check out our brief overview of PPM and why we suggest you track the values over your plants lifecyle.
For a more in depth explanation, check out a printed infographic.
]]>We definitely do not use unicorn dust - that's for sure. No way. We did, however, develop a simple and effective nutrient line. Simple enough that it feels like magic, so we get it. Our 5 product lineup provides highly concentrated nutrients that your plants crave.
]]>Here's a quick overview of the Growing Platform™ growing with coco coir.
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Your California Elite Rep, Crystal, will be available to answer your questions and give pointers! We will have samples available.
Check out events Facebook page for more details.
Hope to see you there!
Getting started with hydroponic gardening can be an intimidating process. We know that: that's why we made a simple nutrient system. If you know your alphabet, it's likely you can work your way through Elite's nutrient line.
We provide everything you'll need for success.
Check out the video above to see just how easy the Elite Nutrient line is.
]]>One Elite Growing Platform replaces a number of common growing equipment purchases. Check out the video to see how we stack up to the competition. For more product info, click here.
For a PDF version of the video:
]]>With only 5 bottles in the Elite Nutrients lineup, each product plays a key role in plant development. Instead of picking up one of our printed brochures, head over to our new YouTube page to learn more about our products.
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With regular use grow lamps efficiency is lowered over time, meaning you are paying the same for electricity but getting less usable light for your plants. On the other hand, quality grow lamp replacements are not inexpensive.
Note: the above suggestions re grow lamp replacements assume an average of 12 ON hours per 24 hour period, so running them 18-to 24 hours a day further decreases suggested time between replacement. Very frequent ON and OFFs may also reduce optimal working life further.
Did you know that besides losing light intensity, the actual color (light quality) may also begin to shift? This means that the lamp output is not performing as designed to do for optimal plant growth per watt of electricity being used.
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This guide will mix over 55 gallons of diluted solution which is enough to feed 5 gallons a week throughout a 12 week cycle. The instructions below will help get you started.
What you'll need..
Fill 5 gallon container with reverse osmosis or distilled water. Note: You can use a smaller container if desired and make multiple batches throughout the week.
Use measuring cup to measure out the appropriate amount of Base Nutrient A (see feed chart on Elite Nutrients app for details).
Use stirring stick to mix Base Nutrient A in water.
Rinse measuring cup and repeat with Elite Nutrients A-D
Use pH meter to test pH of water. Note: The ideal range is between 5.8-6.3
Now, transfer your mixed solution to a watering device of choice for your feedings*. Use the mixed 5 gallon solution to feed your plant all week. On day 7, water with plain RO or distilled water. Mix a new batch each week according to Elite feed chart. Feed directly into your root zone. Happy growing!
* Feeding frequency/amounts vary depending on media choice & pot size. We do NOT recommend using Elite as a foliar spray on the plant canopy.